Some journeys begin nothing like you imagined and perhaps that is exactly why they begin well. On Friday evening, straight from the airport, instead of heading towards San Marco we drove the opposite way: to Mestre, to a vast concrete square that appears on no postcards. To Piazzale Divisione Acqui, a square named after the Italian division slaughtered by the Wehrmacht on Cephalonia in 1943 when, after the armistice with the Allies, it refused to surrender its weapons to the Germans. How aptly the venue had been chosen, I was yet to find out.
For now, I saw a crowd, red grandstands knocked together from scaffolding, and screens pulsing with the words:
Definire il potere. Define Power.
That is how our Biennale Danza began. The twentieth edition of La Biennale di Venezia's festival of contemporary dance, whose curator, Wayne McGregor, gave it the motto "Il tempo non esiste / Time Does Not Exist". Our first encounter with it, though, was not the velvet of a theatre box but "Dance People" by Omar Rajeh, Mia Habis and the Maqamat company: a hundred minutes you could not simply call a show, because — as the programme fairly warned, it "is not a performance to observe from afar. It's a gesture to share. A space to inhabit".
Live music: Mathias Delplanque's electronics, Ziad El Ahmadie's oud and the voice of Abdul Karim Chaar circled the square just as the dancers did. Ten artists from different parts of the world, from different traditions of movement. Rajeh calls his practice "Circling": the body is not one body but many. Many centres of gravity and of meaning, many points of communication. We watched from up close, at arm's length, as theory turned into pure expression: tension, fall, rise, run.
And then someone pressed into my hand a red envelope holding a translucent sheet folded in half. Numbered like a print from a limited edition: 294/400. I unfolded it and read. First in disbelief, then with the kind of emotion that tightens the throat because it arrives without warning. "An excerpt from a letter sent by coal miner, Władysław Grzelak, to his wife Danuta, Silesia, Poland, August 31, 1980":
"…I signed it, Danuta. My name, among thousands, on the paper they'll hang in history. When the factory horn blew this time, it wasn't for danger — it was for victory. I saw men kiss their fists, not to threaten, but to thank them. For holding. For working. For resisting."
The date says everything: the day the Gdańsk Agreement was signed. At the bottom of the sheet, in fine print, the sources on which this reconstruction was based, among them Lech Wałęsa's "A Way of Hope" and the Polish Solidarity Archives. I had flown from Poland to Venice so that, on a square in Mestre, by some strange twist of fate, a Lebanese choreographer could hand me a piece of my own history. As a Pole I felt recognized,not as a tourist, but as the heir to a certain experience.
My wife received a sheet from another world and another year: an excerpt from a letter sent by bakery owner Hossein Shadmehr to his brother Mehdi, Isfahan, March 5, 1979 — seven weeks after the Shah fled, three weeks after the triumph of the revolution:
"I closed the bakery today. Not because of protest, but because a group of young men stormed in and shouted: 'Bread for the believers, not the traitors!' I've been baking here for years. Now they say I'm too secular, too quiet, too old. My neighbour was taken for serving army officers. What are the rules now? The Shah is gone, but fear changed its face, not its weight. I sweep the ash from the oven and think of our father's hands in flour. I don't know what this republic wants from men like me."
Around us, people were reading other letters, from other revolutions. And on the screens, the same screens that had ordered us to define power, names, places and dates kept returning: victims of the violence of power, from different corners of the world and different decades. Of revolts, protests, revolutions. A story we in Poland know from family archives turned out to be terrifyingly and consolingly universal at once: everywhere the same courage, the same fear changing its face but not its weight, the same factory sirens and the same empty places at the table. Rajeh, after all, knows what he is talking about: his Beirut choreographic centre, Citerne, was forcibly dismantled in 2019, and the question "What is the space of democracy?", which "Dance People" poses, is for him anything but theoretical.
Towards the end came the thing for which, as I think today, Omar Rajeh had planned it all: the boundary between stage and audience first came loose, then simply disappeared. Dancers pulled people out of the crowd, someone pulled in a neighbour, the neighbour pulled in the next few, and… suddenly everyone was dancing: children, tourists, residents of the surrounding blocks, us. Define power. That evening, on a square bearing the name of the executed, for a moment nobody held it. Or perhaps we all did?


























